Climatic Considerations for Winter Squash and Pumpkins

Squash is a warm-season crop. It should not be planted until the danger of frost is past. In the list below, note the species from which each variety has been selected. Some do better in certain climates and have different growing season lengths.

C. argyrosperma and C. mixta grow best in hot arid climates like the Southwest United States
C. maxima grow best in cooler northern climates, especially along coastal areas of large lakes or oceans where the growing temperature may be more consistent
C. moschata are best grown in southern humid climates
C. pepo does best in areas in climates which provide even rainfalls and temperature ranges, such as, coastal regions and the midwestern United States.

Related References

Where are Pumpkins Native to?

The common species of squashes and pumpkins used by gardeners are native to the Western Hemisphere and wild varieties can occasionally be found in their native environments.

C. maxima – Represented by the Hubbard, Delicious, Marblehead, Boston Marrow, and Turks Turban are varieties thought to have originated in northern Argentina, near the Andes, or in certain Andean valleys. Maxima varieties like cooler climates with regular rainfall.
C. moschata – Represented by such varieties as butternut, Winter Crookneck Squashes, and Japanese Pie and Large Cheese Pumpkins are native to Mexico and Central America. This species prefers and tolerates hot growing conditions and longer growing seasons of the southern regions.
C. pepo – Apparently originated in the same general area of Mexico and Central America as C. Maxima and is represented by Golden Acorn, Jack-Be-Little, Connecticut Field, and Delicata. Pepo varieties like cooler climates with regular rainfall.
C. argyrosperma –Includes many of the traditional winter squashes known as Cushaws, which have been grown since early times from Guatemala to the southwestern U.S. Members of this species are drought-tolerant and their flesh is generally paler, stringier and less sweet than other types of squash.

Winter Squash – Buttercup

Buttercup (C. Maxima)

Classification	Days To Maturity	Fruit Size	Weight	Skin Color	Habit	Notes
Squash	90 – 110	Small	3-5 pounds	Dark-green skin, sometimes accented with lighter green streaks	Vining	A relatively early maturing winter squash having fine grained, slightly dry, orange flesh and a rich, sweet flavor. Buttercup Squash are part of the Turban squash family (hard shells with turban-like shapes) and are a popular variety of winter squash. Plants are bushy and fairly compact. This squash began as a cross between the “Quality” and “Essex” squashes.
Seed Depth	Seeds Per group	Seed Spacing	Space Between Hills	Day To Germination	Thin To (Plants Per hill)
½ to ¾ inch	6 to 8	18 to 24 inches	3 to 4 feet	7 to 14	3
Species	Genus		Year Introduced		Heirloom	Resistance
Cucurbita	Maxima		1925		Yes	Unknown
Usage	Edible – Excellent food qualities and is one of the more highly regarded winter squashes for culinary purposes.
Storage	Good Keeper. Sweetness will increase with proper storage.
Space Saver	This squash is an excellent climber and is recommend for growing on a lattice or fence.

Winter Squash – Blue Hubbard

Classification	Days To Maturity	Fruit Size	Weight	Skin Color	Habit	Features
Squash	95 -100	Medium to large	10 to 50 lbs	Blue-gray-green fruits	Large Vining 10 to 15 feet	Also, known as the New England Blue Hubbard. Usually bigger than the Golden and the Green Hubbard; the Blue Hubbard is an old time favorite. The thick yellow-orange flesh is dry, fine-grained, and very sweet.
Seed Depth	Seeds Per group	Seed Spacing	Space Between Hills	Day To Germination	Thin To (Plants Per hill)
½ – 1	6 – 8	4″	3 -4′	7 – 14	3
Species	Genus		Year Introduced		Heirloom	Resistance
Cucurbita	Maxima		1856		Yes	Unknown
Usage	Edible; Good food qualities.
Storage	Good Keeper
Space Saver	No suggestions

Pumpkin – Big Max

Classification	Days To Maturity	Fruit Size	Weight	Skin Color	Habit	Notes
Pumpkin	100 – 120 days	Extra-Large 18 to 20 X 24″	35 – 100 lbs	Orange and relatively smooth	Very Large Vines 10 to 15 feet	The bright yellow-orange flesh is 3 to 4 inches thick. They will commonly grow to 50 to 70 pounds (perhaps larger with extra care). Big Max needs plenty of room to grow. This is a truly lovely pumpkin which I have raised consistently since the 1970’s.
Seed Depth	Seeds Per group	Seed Spacing	Space Between Hills	Day To Germination	Thin To (Plants Per hill)
1 -1½ “	4-6	18″	15 to 20 feet	6-10	1 or 2
Species	Genus		Year Introduced		Heirloom	Resistance
Cucurbita	Maxima				Yes	Unknown
Usage	Edible, but also grown as a large carver or for novelty displays.
Storage	Good Keeper
Space Saver	No suggestions

Ask The Gardener: Is it too late to plant pumpkins (Halloween style), in hardiness Zone 8?

The Question

Is it too late to plant pumpkins (Halloween style), in hardiness Zone 8?

Answer

Yes, there is still time. However you will be racing the frost dates (about 15 November) and the squash vine borers.

Advice to help you beat the frost date

Keep in mind that the C. Pepo & C. Maxima (most of the Orange roundish varieties) of pumpkins are, generally, very susceptible to the squash vine borer.
Here is an accelerator approach to give yourself an added advantage on the frost date:
- You may want to start the seeds indoors, they may not germinate with current ground temperatures.
- It would be best to get an early maturing variety (e.g. Montana Jack Pumpkin {90 days}).
- Soak your seeds overnight between two moisten towels, not overly wet, then plant them.
- When you plant your seedlings make sure your soil is rich and add a fertilizer stake near (large ones—not the minis), but not too close to the plant.
- Grow your pumpkin horizontally on the ground – not vertically.
- Bury the vines as soon as possible and a much as possible with loose dirt, until a couple of feet before you want the pumpkin to set.
- A couple of inches of loose, light, mulch on top and around the vines and plant base would be a good idea.
- Once the vine starts to grow side dress the leaf/vine joints with a slow-release fertilizer (before you cover with dirt).
- I would also add a fertilizer stack near each leaf/vine joint as well, again not to close (before you cover with dirt).
- Use drip irrigation aimed at the plant base and each of the leaf/vine joints and, then, deep water. You are after consistently moist soil and, hopefully, down to about 18 – 24 inches.
- You can, also, added some clay pot basins near the plant base to keep them full and covered.

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The Question

Answer

Advice to help you beat the frost date

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